Carb cleaning by Dave Raforth
Some Carb Background
As the carbs come from the factory, there are only two adjustments possible. One is the float level height, which typically won't change unless someone intentionally (or I suppose accidentally) bends the float tang that pushes on the needle. The second setting is carb synchronizing which has been discussed on the club and is an important maintenance item but not really something that needs to be performed every week.
Idle speed is of course also adjustable, but this is not affecting how the carb works. Idle mixture becomes adjustable when you remove the caps covering the idle mixture screws (which everyone does). Finally, there is slide needle adjustment. This is ONLY adjustable if you have installed an aftermarket rejetting kit. Yamaha needles are not adjustable, but the needles included in the rejetting kit have several grooves with a spring clip which lets you control how far they stick into the main jet 'tube'.
Steve Marxer supplied the following option for adjusting the factory Yamaha needles. Even though the factory needles have no grooves for moving the retaining clip, adjustment of the needles can be done with small washers. To richen the mixture, you need to pull the needles up in small increments. Steve suggested a hobby store as a source of small washers that can be used to shim the stock needle. This should be done with caution, I would recommend buying a bunch, measuring the thickness, and using matching washers. There is a trade off involved in this process, of course. DynoJet and others have spent a lot of time and money developing matched components for best response and overall performance. Time is money and you could spend a lot of time getting this right trying different combinations. At some point, it may be worth it to purchase the kit.
Everything else in the carbs is controlled by swapping out components such as main jets and air pilot jets. The key to a successful carb rebuild is to take everything apart and first clean all of the separate components. That is, spray out all of the jets and clean everything that will come off of the carb body. Again, resist the temptation to stick anything into a jet to remove crud. Soak it in carb cleaner until it is removed. If you must stick something in the jet to clean it, use something SOFTER than brass such as a toothpick. After cleaning all of the components, the carb body and all of the circuits can be cleaned. Then just reassemble, install assembly back on engine, adjust (or preset) idle mixture screws, fire up bike, adjust sync and idle speed and ENJOY.
I'll attempt to take you through the steps required to totally disassemble the carbs for a good cleaning. Warning, this will take a few hours even for the most experienced. If it's your first time in the carbs, don't be surprised if it extends into the next day. Take your time and do it right. This is the heart of your engine, keep your carbs in good shape and you may find that you no longer need to spend that $100 on some go-fast part. Or, now that your carbs are in good shape/tune, that $100 already spent on said go-fast part IS actually worth the money.
Carb Removal and Disassembly
Note: in the following, I will refer to the carbs by number. The numbers DO NOT refer to the cylinder numbering. Since the carbs will be upside-down and possibly backwards, this would be too confusing for me to keep straight. These instructions should allow you to perform the work starting with either end carb and working to the other side. 1, 2, 3, and 4 only refer to the order you are cleaning them.
First, remove the 4 carb assembly from the engine. This will require that you open up the cable box and separate the throttle cables. Watch out, these screws are small and black and easy to lose! Those of you with no cable junction can unhook the cables at the carb throttle linkage. Loosen up the clamps, slide the airbox back and pull the carb assembly out. Another tip I have read is to remove the two bolts near the airbox that hold the rear subframe. Removing these bolts allows the subframe to rotate out of the way allowing you to remove the airbox completely. This will definitely make removal and installation easier.
Now, turn the carbs over, shake up and down and side to side to try and drain as much gas from them as possible. You could loosen the float bowl drain screws but I like to leave these alone as they can strip easily. Steve Marxer recommends removing (or at least breaking loose) the float bowl drain screws as they are steel in aluminum and subject to corroding in place. This is a good maintenance idea if these items are showing signs of corrosion. Just a warning here, if you strip these screws, Yamaha has the only replacement. And since the float bowl is the aluminum part it will probably be the part that strips out! These need to be tight, but not TIGHT, see my note on tightening parts below.
You are now ready to perform your first diagnostic. With the carb assembly upside down, try blowing into the main fuel line. If you can hold a pressure, this is a good indication that the needles are seating properly and the needle seat o-rings are not leaking. If you feel the pressure leaking out, chances are the needle seat o-rings need to be replaced.
Okay, on to disassembly and cleaning.
First, remove the carb top and take out the large spring and the diaphragm/slide assembly. This assembly will contain the slide needle that sticks down into the tube in the carb throat and into the main jet in the float bowl. Inspect the diaphragm for any tears or rips. If it is damaged, it will need to be replaced (and these are probably not cheap, so hopefully yours are in good shape). By the way, layout the brackets that you will be removing from the carb tops so you know how they go back on. The manual or a drawing will help you remember the orientation.
Repeat this process for the remaining three carbs. This is a good time to start 4 separate piles of parts. Try not to mix the parts from different carbs. This should not really hurt, but it is best to put the components back in the carb they originally came from.
One of the middle carbs will hold the throttle cable bracket. You can remove the cables from the carb throttle linkage assembly and set it aside.
Now that the tops are disassembled, this is a good time to loosen up all the screws (but DO NOT remove any yet). Loosen all 16 float bowl screws and tap on the bowls to break them loose from their gaskets (any residual gas will run out at this point). Since we will be separating the carb bodies, also loosen the 8 screws on the upper alignment bracket and the 8 screws on the lower alignment bracket (down by the bowls). On the last set of carbs I cleaned, I stripped a depressing number of these screws even using an impact screwdriver. I recommend replacing these screws with allen bolts in the text below. If you do strip any of these screws, you can use vise-grips or a sharp punch and hammer to get them off (which is what I had to do).
Next, loosen the 4 screws holding the choke pawls (clips?) to the choke shaft. These will be in small indentations in the choke shaft. Just loosen the screws enough to let you pull out the choke shaft. Set the choke shaft aside and add the choke pawls to their appropriate parts piles.
Turn the carbs so you can see the throttle connections between the four carbs. Look for the carb synchronization screws, there are three of them. Each sync mechanism has one small spring loading a tang from the adjacent carb. Use a small screwdriver or pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the small spring. Place the springs in a separate pile between the two carb parts piles they belong to. Note, this may affect the carb synchronization but we will fix this in the tuning section.
Now we are ready to remove the first carb body from the assembly. Remove the 4 screws holding one of the end carbs to the upper and lower brackets and pull the carb sideways to extract it. Between this carb and the next carb, there will be one T-fitting and one pipe fitting both of which are sealed by double o-rings. Remove these fittings and set them between two of the carb parts piles. This will help you remember which two carbs these fittings came off of.
There are some differences between the 1100 carbs and the 1200 carbs with regard to the fuel fittings. On the 1100, there are two fuel inlet fittings, one between carb 1 and 2 and another between 3 and 4. There is no fuel plumbing between the two middle carbs. On the 1200, there is one fuel fitting between carb 2 and 3 and pipe fittings between 1,2 and 3,4. I'll try to clarify this where necessary.
Turn carb float bowl up and remove the float bowl. Remove the gasket, but do not break it. If it won't come off leave it on! Usually the gasket wants to remain on the float bowl, this is fine.
Tap out the float hinge pin with a punch and add float and hinge pin to carb pile. Be careful with the float, it is fragile and we don't want to buy any new ones! If the carb shows signs of neglect and corrosion in the bowl, you might want to spray it with some cleaner at this time and follow it with some WD-40. The float posts will break off if you use too much force! Be careful!
The needle came out with the float, catch it and add to pile also.
Remove screw on needle seat clamp, add the clamp and screw to parts pile and carefully pull out the seat assembly (may require pliers but be careful). There is a screen on the other side of the seat. You do not have to remove it. Inspect needle seat o-ring for wear. This would be a good time to replace them (not now, but do it during reassembly). Add seat to pile.
Using a LARGE flat blade screwdriver, remove the main jet with its brass washer and add to pile (which I will now refer to as ATP). The main jet is screwed into a brass 'tube'. I think this tube is called the main needle jet, but I will call it the tube. To remove the tube, use a punch and gently tap the tube out the top of the carb body. You will be tapping down since the carb is upside down (just in case you forgot). Be careful not to damage the threads for the main jet, pick the appropriate size punch for this job! Remove the tube and ATP (add to pile).
Next use a small flat blade screwdriver and loosen the idle jet. This is a small jet in a recessed tube next to where the main jet was. Use firm pressure on the screwdriver so you do not strip the slot in the idle jet. This would be a major pain to remove if it gets stripped! Remove idle jet and ATP.
Everything is now out of the float bowl.
Rotate carb body so the air cleaner side is facing up. See that brass jet in one of the two small holes? I forget which hole it is, but it's there! This is the pilot air jet. Use a good screwdriver to remove this jet and ATP.
Now rotate the carb to prepare to remove the idle mixture adjustment screw. This is a good time to see how many turns out this screw is. Count the number of turns IN required to lightly seat this screw. Write this number down, it should typically be between 2 and 3 turns. Okay, now remove the idle mixture adjustment screw assembly. There are 4 parts to this screw assembly; the screw itself, a small spring, a small washer, and a small gasket on the very bottom. The gasket may want to stay in the carb body. Carefully dig it out (otherwise it will fall out when you're not looking). Keep this assembly together and ATP.
Finally, use a wrench and remove the choke plunger from the carb body. Be careful, the rubber dust cap is spring loaded and may push the dust cap off of the plunger. You have now disassembled the carb body far enough for cleaning.
Cleaning method is as follows:
1. Spray parts with Berryman's B12 Carb Cleaner (or equivalent) until they are CLEAN. That is, all crud is gone. Have a few extra cans of Berryman's in reserve.
2. Wash off clean parts with water. Hose pressure is good, just don't shoot the parts across the yard!
3. Use compressed air to blow dry parts. If compressed air is not available, do the best you can.
4. Return clean parts to the appropriate pile. Government required warning: Spraying carb cleaner probably causes cancer in laboratory rats. It will also spray you in the eyes when you attempt to spray it in a blind hole. Use appropriate eye protection so you can watch what you are cleaning. Otherwise, the force of the spray will propel the object you are attempting to clean into an alternate universe. This action results in a rise in Yamaha stock and a corresponding fall in your bank account balance.
Clean the parts in the following order:
First, clean the float bowl. There is a cast-in tube on one side of thebowl, make sure you spray it out good. This is where the choke draws gas from. Main jet, pilot air jet (looks like a small main jet), and needle seat (with the small screen).
Next do the idle jet and main needle jet (this is the long brass 'tube', remember?). These parts have tiny holes on their sides. Hold them up to the light and make sure these holes are not blocked. If they are, repeat the cleaning until they are clear. On the 1100 carbs, the idle jets may not have the small holes on the side, but I think the 1200 idle jets do (or at least some 1200 carbs). I hate to admit it, but the set of 1200 carbs I cleaned came off of a Legend car, so there may be some differences.
Next do the float, hinge pin and needle. Be careful with the float and the needle. I would not dip the float and needle, just spray off and rinse quickly to avoid damaging whatever material these are made of. Next do the idle mixture screw assembly (the tip needs to be clean on this assembly) and the choke plunger.
Now do the carb body. Spray EVERY opening on the carb body. Use extra cleaner on any hole in the body where some component was removed.
Now spray every hole again just to be sure since you probably missed something the first time. Also spray down the outside of the carb body.
Repeat this process when rinsing with the hose. Spray then spray again! Blow out everything with compressed air. If air is not available, shake the body well then use your mouth wherever you can. I have a one gallon can of Berryman's that I dip the carb bodies in but I also use spray cleaner on them to make sure all the circuits are clean.
Finally, clean the slide assembly and the slide needle if they are dirty. Use caution, I'm sure there is some chemical that will eat the slide diaphragm and you may be using it. I spray these lightly and rinse quickly just to be on the safe side and haven't melted one yet!
At this point, you have your first clean carb. All the parts are clean and dry, now let's put it back together.
Reassembly and Bench Syncronization:
First, install the 'tube' (main needle jet for those of you following along in the manual) by inserting it from the top of the carb body. Try to line up the slot with the alignment pin as you install it because it is tough to turn after you slide it in place. You don't want to turn it with pliers as this can deform the soft brass. If necessary, pop it back out and try the installation again. Once it is properly seated, stick a finger in the carb throat to hold the tube while you turn the carb over and install the main jet and washer into the threads in the tube.
A note about installing parts in the carb before we continue. The carb parts are not under any kind of stress, but are subjected to some vibration. When installing the brass components, they need to be tight, but not TIGHT. You don't want to strip anything, but you also don't want anything falling out. In more technical terms, be on the tight side of snug. Remember, one day you may need to remove these components again without stripping them in the process.
Using the above guidelines, tighten the main jet. Incase you didn't notice, this holds the tube in place in the carb body.
Next install the idle jet. This is the smallest jet-looking brass piece with an extended snout that may, or may not, have small holes in the side. It goes down inside the tube next to the main jet. Again, carefully tighten this jet but do not strip the slot in it.
Now install the needle seat. This is a good time to replace those small o-rings on the seat as they can leak with age. Make sure you use o-rings that cannot be eaten up by gas. A little drop of oil on the o-ring helps it fit in. Put the seat clamp over the seat and install the keeper screw.
Place the fuel needle on the float tang and guide the needle into the seat as you position the float between the mounting posts. Line up the float and install the float hinge pin so it is snug. Do not seat the hinge pin all the way until after you check the float level. You may need to remove the pin to adjust the float height. This is a good time to check the float level. If you have a set of calipers, the manual says to hold the carb at an angle where the float is slightly pressing on the needle but the needle is not supporting all of the weight of the float. This is best accomplished by starting with the carb in an upside-down position and then tilting it about 45 degrees. Measure float height from the carb gasket surface on the carb body to the top center of one of the floats. This will actually be the bottom side of the float, since the carb is upside-down during this measurement. I hope this is enough confusion.
If you do not have a set of calipers, try the following technique. Hold the carb upside down and level. Does the float look level? If its close, let it go, if it is noticeably out of level, adjust it so it is level (why do you think the call it float LEVEL?). It is generally better to have a float setting that keeps less gas in the bowl than more. If you can get the spec setting, DO IT. The spec is 0.88 inches +/- 0.04 inches. If you are measuring something vastly different, you will need to follow the manual at this point as I will probably just confuse you further with no figures to reference.
After setting the float level, use channel lock pliers to seat the float hinge pin but do not squeeze hard enough to bend the mounting posts. Make sure the float will pivot freely on the hinge pin. This will help prevent the 'stuck float' carb overflow problems some are reporting.
Everything is now back in the float bowl. Install the float bowl gasket and put the float bowl on. By now, you are looking at the 4 phillips bolts that are supposed to hold the float bowl on and wondering how you are going to reuse them since you stripped the heads off of three of them when you initially loosened them. This is a good time to grab one each of the following screws: float bowl, carb top and carb alignment bracket screws. Now grab your car keys and head down to your local ACE Hardware store and find the metric bolt section. The alignment bracket and carb top screws are identical, replace them with allen head bolts. I believe the correct size is 5mm x 80 x 12mm long, but verify this with a nut and the old screw. You will need to buy 24 of the small bolts (16 for the carb tops and 8 for the alignment bracket). Also get 16 bolts to replace the float bowl screws. Threads are the same but the length is different (should be 16mm), use the old screw as a guide. Also for the float bowl bolts, get some lock washers. You cannot reuse the old ones, they are captive on the factory screws. This hardware will cost about $16 to $20 as ACE is proud of their metric allen bolts. However, installing allen bolts at this time will make any future carb work much easier. I am assuming that you did not strip any of the #3 phillips head screws on the other alignment bracket. If you did, get replacements for these 8 screws also.
Now install the new float bowl bolts and tighten in a criss-cross fashion. These do not have to be TIGHT. The gas level is maintained below the gasket surface (except for you extreme knee draggers). If the level reaches this far up in the carb, you have a bad float level or a leaking needle/seat which we will prevent by testing, adjustment, and replacement in this procedure.
Rotate carb so the air cleaner side is up and install the pilot air jet. This is the one that looks like a small main jet. Only one of the holes you will see has threads, this is where the jet goes. Again, use care in tightening this jet because you really don't want this one to come out as it will probably be sucked right into the intake system if this should happen.
Rotate carb to float bowl down position and install the idle mixture screw assembly. This is the gasket, washer, spring, and mixture screw assembly. A little oil on the threads helps you to lightly seat the screw then back out about two and one-half full turns as a starting point. We will fine adjust these in the tuning section also.
Reinstall the choke plunger with its dust cap and spring and tighten the plunger.
If there were no brackets on the carb top cap, you can go ahead and install the diaphragm/slide assemble. Line up the half-moon tab in the diaphragm with the cut-out in the carb body, put the spring in the slide, line up the spring with the top cap, compress the spring as you position the cap on the carb, install the new bolts and tighten them up.
Time for an assembly verification test. Hold the carb upright so you are looking into the throat from the air cleaner side. See that oval port at the top of the intake circle? Blow into it with your mouth. This should raise the slide assembly and hold it there. If it does, you have a good slide diaphragm and it has been installed correctly. If it appears to leak your applied pressure and allows the slide to fall, the diaphragm may have a hole in it or it is not installed correctly. Inspect the diaphragm and verify the installation. This must work properly or you will have no throttle response.
Now you have your first cleaned and reassembled carb.
You can install the T-fitting and the pipe/fuel fitting in the finished carb now. Use a drop of oil on the o-rings to aid assembly. Set this assembly aside and move on to the next carb.
For carb number 2, remove the synchronization spring from the throttle mechanism and place it so you will remember where it came from.
Loosen the 4 alignment bracket screws and pull this carb sideways. On 1200s, the main fuel fitting will connect the two middle carbs.
Remove this fitting and set it so you will remember where it came from. If you have an 1100, there is no fuel fitting between the middle two carbs. You now have the next carb in your hands. Find the appropriate disassembly step above and repeat the disassembly, cleaning, and reassembly processes. Remember to perform the float level and slide diaphragm diagnostics. All four carbs have the same components so you will not run into anything that you haven't already seen.
I'll wait until you finish this carb??..
Okay, now number two is clean and reassembled with new float bowl and top cap bolts. I hope this one was easier than the first. Go ahead and put the main fuel fitting back in this carb (if applicable).
Repeat this process again on the third carb.
You are now down to one dirty carb that still has the alignment brackets attached to it. Time to begin rebuilding the carb assembly. Take the first two carbs and attach them to each other by sliding #2 onto the T-fitting and pipe/fuel fitting sticking out of the side of the first carb (use some oil on the o-rings).
Now attach the third carb to the second by sliding it on the main fuel fitting (1200 only). At this point, you can move the alignment brackets from the final carb over to the 1, 2, 3 assembly. Use the new bolts for the small phillips heads that you stripped out. I am assuming that you did not strip the large #3 phillips head screws (if you did, time for another trip to ACE Hardware). Snug the bracket bolts to hold the 1,2,3 carb assembly together and now go clean the final carb. If you are working with 1100 carbs, build the 1,2 assembly and move the brackets over. Wait until #4 is clean then build the 3,4 assembly and attach it to the brackets.
Now that the last carb is finished, slide it on to the T-fitting and pipe fitting sticking out of the side of the third carb and attach it to the brackets with the screws and bolts. Looks like we are almost done!
You may have messed up the throttle and choke brackets on the top, so double check them at this time. Also, did you remember to re-install the idle speed adjustment on the bottom alignment bracket between the two middle carbs? If everything checks out okay, go ahead and tighten all of the alignment bolts and screws at this time.
Now turn the assembly around so you can re-install the synchronization springs. Be sure to put all 3 springs in and verify that they are properly seated. We will now perform our best shot at bench synchronization.
Hold the carb assembly at eye level so you are looking at the throttle plates. It is like you are looking from the engine side into the carb throat. Move the throttle linkage to open the throttle plates a little so you can see light around the bottom of the plate. You can also use the idle speed adjustment (do not confuse this with the idle MIXTURE adjustment!) to set a gap that you can see. Note: this will definitely mess up the idle speed when we go to start the engine at the end. Do all the throttle plates look like they have the same gap? If so, it will be good enough to get us to the starting stage. If the gaps are way off, adjust the sync screws so all of the gaps match the left middle carb (this is the non-adjustable carb, so the others must be matched to this one. When finished, turn the idle speed adjustment back down if you chose this method. Leave a small gap, or the bike won't idle.
Now we are synced at the bench level, time for one more test. Turn the carbs upside-down (again) and blow into the main fuel fitting (you can go ahead and attach the fuel hose(s) if necessary). It should hold pressure since the floats are pressing the fuel needles into the seats and since we installed new seat o-rings, they are not leaking.
Now reinstall the choke rod and all of the individual choke pawls. This is kind of awkward, do the best you can. Remember, the screws line up in the indentations in the rod. Make sure it is installed from the correct side. Once the screws are tightened, activate (pull) the choke rod so the plungers are extended and apply a drop of oil on each plunger shaft. Also apply a drop of oil everywhere the rod passes through the carb body. This will help give you a smooth operating choke system.
Put all of the hoses back on the appropriate fittings and hook the throttle cables to the throttle linkage.
Check the bench for loose parts. Since I am doing this from memory, have I forgotten to re-install anything? I didn't think so.
Okay time to reinstall the carb assembly back onto the engine.
Tuning:
I will assume you have the following equipment to perform the required tuning:
Auxiliary gas tank that allows you to access the carbs while the engine is running. I use a lawnmower gas tank with a long fuel hose and shutoff valve. I mounted a piece of angle iron to the ceiling of my garage so I can hang the aux tank and my sync gauge from it using bungee cord or coat hanger wire. Garage door rails can also be used for this setup.
(Mazz offers a good idea for making one of these out of easy to find items in the section too.)
Synchronization (sync) gauge.
Long flat blade screwdriver for sync adjustments and short flat blade screwdriver for idle mixture adjustment.
Box fan to blow air on the engine. This may take a while to complete and we don't want to overheat the engine. The fan may not be adequate, but it will help extend the run times. If you think the engine is getting too hot anywhere in this process, shut it down and allow it to cool before continuing. Don't let it cool too much though, it needs to be able to idle without any choke for best adjustment.
Okay lets get started.
Our nice clean carbs are back on the engine.
Air cleaner box is hooked up with filter element installed, or individual units are attached. All hose clamps are tight, and there are no known leaks around any of the mounting boots.
Hook up sync gauge to all four intake ports.
Mount aux fuel tank and attach fuel hose to carb inlet hose. Turn gas on (if your aux tank has a shutoff valve) and allow carbs to fill. CHECK FOR LEAKS from the overflow hoses and any dripping from the float bowls. If a float is stuck or the level is way off, gas will be leaking. I will assume everything is okay. If it is not, FIX IT before continuing.
If you performed a good bench synchronization and preset the idle mixture screws there is a high probability that the engine will start right up.
Set the choke and hit that starter button!
I KNEW IT WOULD WORK!
Allow the engine to warm up to the point where the choke is off and the idle speed is fairly stable. The idle speed may be off from our work so adjust it to the desired or recommended idle speed (1000 RPM) if necessary.
After reaching a stable idle, check the sync gauge readings. Perform an initial sync at this time. As a quick summary, sync #1 to #2 then #4 to #3 then balance the 1,2 set to the 3,4 set. This procedure is using the cylinder numbering which is from left to right as viewed from the seated position.
Now, start turning the idle mixture screws. This is a little black magic and personal preference. It may be tough to tell if anything is happening. You can have one cylinder fighting the other three. Look for best idle and or vacuum within about one turn in or out from the starting position. You can try one cylinder at a time or you can work in half turn increments on all of the cylinders to see what seems to work best for your engine.
I have tinkered with idle mixture settings over the years, but have to admit that on my last carb rebuild I just turned them 3 turns out and it is not too bad. I plan on optimizing this next time I'm under the tank as the idle is just slightly erratic for me and I know it can be better. If you are having trouble telling any difference in the settings, take them back to about 2 and one half turns and try the blip-the-throttle test. If you rev the engine and it slowly returns to idle, you are too rich. If you rev the engine and it drops down then recovers to the correct idle speed, you are too lean.
One final goal. If you can find a setting where the idle is smooth and steady STOP!!! Ignore the maximum idle and vacuum suggestions and don't go any farther with your adjustments.
Now check the sync gauge again. It may have changed while we were adjusting the idle mixture settings. If so, sync the stray carbs again. If this screwed up your perfect idle then go back to the mixture screws and try to find it again. This technique should iterate to the perfect solution. Feel free to jump out of the loop whenever you are happy with the idle quality. Sorry, this is the best I know to do. If you have achieved idle satisfaction, time for a road test to check throttle response.
Okay, I'm going to wimp out here. If you had good throttle response before this, you should still have good response afterward. If you had bad throttle response before you performed this cleaning and it was caused by a dirty carb, you now hopefully have a large smile on your face. If you do not fall into either of these groups, you probably need to change your jetting and/or needle position.
Unfortunately, that is probably another 8 pages and can vary depending on the equipment you have installed. I'll give it my best shot on a later date. In the meantime take some satisfaction in those shiny carbs.
Final notes:
Pay attention to the warm versus cold idle quality. This will let you know whether to go leaner or richer on the idle screws. Go for best idle when warm.
For future reference, start monitoring the plug color and amount of soot on the exhaust pipes. Black plugs typically indicate a rich idle condition. Lots of soot on the exhaust indicates overly rich jetting or needles too high.
Thanks for sticking with me. If you have any specifics, I'll do my best to help and I always have an opinion.
David Raforth